Fashion Week is an event well-known to anyone with even the slightest interest in fashion. Several images come with this globally acclaimed fashion event, from photos of models on the catwalk to celebrities watching from the front row, usually wearing dark-tinted sunglasses. Four significant global fashion weeks, collectively called the “Big Four,” are typically held in New York, Paris, London, and Milan.
Among these four, New York Fashion Week still has a strong reputation among the world’s most prestigious fashion events. The event, which takes place in Manhattan twice a year in February and September, showcases fashion collections in America and beyond to buyers, the media, and the general public for seven to nine days. Over the years, African designers have made an indelible mark on the NFYW runway and stages, exhibiting bold designs and creative collections.
Nigerian Maki Oh, for instance, made her debut in 2012, while in 2014, South African and Nigerian industry icons David Tlale and Deola Sagoe also came out with their stunning debuts. African brands like Stoned Cherrie from South Africa, Mali’s Xuly Bet, Momo Couture, and Tiffany Amber from Nigeria have also made NYFW’s history as part of the African Fashion Collective.
It’s been all the way up since then, as numerous Nigerian designers have made indelible marks on the event’s runway. Tia Adeola and the Head of State of Nigeria were on the February programme for NYFW’s Fall 2023 season. In light of this, below are five other Nigerian designers showing up and showing out at this year’s NYFW.
Victor Anate
Victor Anate, the creative director of the up-and-coming fashion label Vicnate and a 20-year-old fashion phenomenon, has made waves in the fashion industry, at home and abroad.
Anate’s most recent collection, N°6, with the theme “SISI GIRL,” was recently unveiled at the prominent Alára Lagos luxury concept shop. Strong silhouettes, luxurious fabrics, and exquisite design are highlighted in the collection, which exemplifies feminine finesse.
While he isn’t showcasing his strong and daring womenswear brand at NYFW, he’s expressing his creativity and talent as a co-collaborator on Naomi Campbell’s highly anticipated collection with PrettyLittleThing. Anate wasn’t alone on this remarkable quest by the world-acclaimed supermodel. Edvin Thompson of Theophilio, a Brooklyn-based designer with Jamaican roots, also lent his expertise and talent to create her collection for the fast fashion behemoth.
With the debut on September 5 as a runway presentation, the spectacular opening of this extravagant fashion show grabbed attention and raised eyebrows. This wasn’t far-fetched as there was a showcase of a selection of 70 items that included outerwear, mesh dresses, stylish pantsuits, and more. It’s no surprise that completing this project adds to Anate’s impressively expanding and exciting portfolio.
Oshobor
The brand Oshobor was founded in 2020 by Nigerian-based designer Oshobor Dawn Peter and thrives on traditional, sustainable, and bold concepts. Peter explores different emotional realms and the rich cultural legacy of his native Edo State, thus birthing the brand to express the love between dads and sons.
Oshobor expanded into the 2022 Green Access programme, Lagos Fashion Week’s platform for talent showcasing and discovery. It further highlighted the brand’s zero-waste philosophy by showcasing a small number of exquisite outfits made from waste yarn and offcuts.
Oshobor will be an esteemed guest in New York for their Carnaval Couture NYFW event thanks to a collaboration with Upscale Magazine and Art Meso, the art and fashion exhibition that highlights up-and-coming designers and creatives from all around the world.
Head Of State
The story behind Head Of State is inspired by philanthropy, creativity, and identity. Created by Taofeek Abijako, Head of State was initially meant to be something other than a full-fledged fashion brand.
When Abijako was a senior in high school, he started to generate money to construct a water system in his hometown. The plan was to use the proceeds from the sale of his creations to pay for the project. However, after looking through his collection of clothes, he understood he had more than just a one-off idea.
Several years later, in 2017, 19-year-old Abijako made history as the youngest debutant at NYFW with his brand’s spring/summer 2018 collection.
Taofeek, now located in Brooklyn, New York, uses Head of State to foster cultural exchange between Nigeria and the United States. The brand has focused on striking a balance between the two through clothing. Traditional Nigerian design features like embroidery and silhouettes, to name a couple, are executed with a contemporary twist.
Until today, Head of State still uses their for-profit fashion business model to support programmes already in place in underprivileged communities.
Kílèntár
Kilèntár is a Nigerian contemporary womenswear brand with a whimsical and feminine look that was founded by Michelle Adepoju in 2019.
Adepoju had at first begun by purchasing clothing to sell online. She would buy clothing items from her neighbourhood thrift shops or charity shops, such as crop tops and blouses, and elegantly adorn them.
Additionally, the company fuses African fashion features like cowries, indigo dyeing (àdìrẹ), and hand weaving. The Black in Fashion Council Discovery Showroom will host Korlekie, Onalaja, Fumi the Label, and Tia Adeola in addition to Kílèntár, one of the newest brands in the NYFW’s roster of African designers.
Onalaja
Onalaja is one of several contemporary Nigerian businesses prioritizing luxury and wearability in their design aesthetic. Kanyinsola Onalaja, a Nigerian-born fashion designer who founded her company in 2014, obtained her BA in Fashion Design from London’s Istituto Marangoni.
After that, she travelled to Rome to study 3D pattern cutting at the Academia di Costume E Moda. Onalaja creates expertly designed clothing for women with contrasting textures and patterns utilizing high-end materials. These patterns are masterpieces, particularly the coral red and the elaborate embroidery that represents the designer’s Bini origin.
Inclusivity is also an element this brand upholds. Onalaja’s bodycon dresses are size-inclusive, fitting a variety of body types. This is why the company’s Zusi dress, which celebrates the feminine body in all its variety, has succeeded. Indiyah Polack, a former Love Island contestant, and Kandi are two celebs who have been seen donning it.
In 2023, Nigeria is expected to generate $1.70 billion in revenue from the lucrative fashion sector, according to Statista. Events and exhibitions like the New York Fashion Week have given global and Nigerian fashion designers numerous opportunities to showcase their ingenuity, identity, and talent, helping the country’s fashion talents achieve international recognition.
