As fashion season goes into full swing in Nigeria fresh off the just-concluded Lagos Fashion Week 2024, conversations around the business of fashion, sustainability, and the future of the industry come to the fore, once again.
This time, it’s not exactly business as usual for the industry as the brands and creative directors are embracing flexibility even more to keep afloat amid the volatility of the global economy while ensuring that they sustain the art, aesthetics, and allure that fashion pieces are known for. Brands such as Banke Kuku are exploring new and strategic ways of running their fashion business while excelling, quite brilliantly, at telling their stories through patterns and designs, while projecting the excellence of African fashion to the global scene. Even though the brand has been known to style notable Black stars such as Davido and Gabrielle Union, it continues to give its full attention to its favourites: the consumers.
Recently in Lagos, Nigeria, the fashion house hosted The Oceans Fashion Show, on October 18, to usher in a new collection and drive home a strong message of environmental consciousness. It was touted as a “representation of the growing Nigerian fashion scene; and a fusion of art, culture and environmental consciousness.” An ally of the Lagos State Government, the brand’s eponymous Creative Director drew inspiration from the state government’s ban on non-biodegradable materials and the ocean’s environmental crisis.
With degrees from the Central St Martins College and Chelsea College of Art and Design, a passion for textiles, and internships at reputable global fashion houses like Burberry and Jasmine De Milo, Banke Kuku launched her brand nearly five years ago. Over the years, she has built a solid fashion house renowned for celebrating Nigeria’s rich cultural heritage and blending traditional elements with contemporary aesthetics. With eyes on African Fashion now more than ever before, Kuku wants the world to look beyond the fashion design, and at the supporting roles like the photographers and the manufacturers as they all come together to elevate the industry.
In this conversation with Modaculture’s Gertrude Oby, the designer emphasizes a no-waste policy, upcycling, and collaborations to promote environmental sustainability. She talks about her transition from interior design to fashion and the impact of COVID-19 on the strategic move.
With many years of standing strong as a household name in African fashion, Banke Kuku possesses adequate skin in the game to appreciate the place of eco-fashion and act on it, as expected. This conversation is a testament to that. “Now, we’re doing more with the marine environment. And we’re also looking to plant quite a number of trees throughout Lagos sometime soon”, she said, intimating some of the ways in which she actively leads the charge.
Sustainable fashion has always meant something to the brand. Even though we’re just voicing it out now, we’re a sustainable brand in the terms that firstly, we have a no-waste policy. Even if a piece is from one of our older collections, we don’t burn it because it’s the end of the season. We’re a seasonless brand, so we don’t have seasons as long as it’s selling on the shelves.
Banke Kuku, Modaculture 2024
And then, we use our upcut to make things like mini bags and also face masks. During COVID-19, we partnered with a charity called Neighbourhood Link and we’re making masks so when a customer buys one of our masks, we would give one away to charity. So, we’re definitely helping them. Also, we create a good working environment for all our staff. We believe in fair trade. We use digital printing, which is better for the environment because it doesn’t consume too much heat and water.
Banke Kuku, the fashion house, has evolved over the years, metamorphosing from an interior design brand, a strategic move necessitated by customer demands and leading to explosive growth aided by the COVID-19 lockdown season.
I was designing prints for interiors, fabrics for interiors, cushions, lampshades, and things like that when I was abroad because I lived in London. I moved to Nigeria and I continued that here as well. That’s what I had in my first door, which everyone still comes to—Number 2, Alexander. But we’ve now expanded. But my first door was just cushions, and lampshades, and then I had some scarves. And then I had a customer that asked me, ‘You know, these prints are beautiful. I want to wear them out. I don’t want to just have them in my house.’ And so, I agreed to make her the Kaftan. And then she ordered another Kaftan and some of her friends started ordering Kaftans. And I just thought, ‘You know what, let me put together a Kaftan collection and see how it goes’.
And, that’s when I launched my first collection, which was called “The Paris Dream,” in December of 2019.
She discusses the future of fashion especially for the industry in Africa, sharing her vision for versatile clothing and the strategic growth of the fashion industry.
The world loves Nigerian fashion designers. The world does. And I feel as if we are really becoming a lot more sophisticated in our practice. I think the future of fashion in Nigeria is that the sky is really our limit. I think it’s amazing how since I started this almost five years ago, I’ve seen the industry grow like, you know, before you didn’t have the industry. It’s not just about the fashion design, it’s about the supporting roles, like amazing photographers and manufacturers. There’s so much more to an industry. And I feel like Nigerians are starting to recognize that. So I’m excited for the future of fashion in Nigeria and I’m excited to see such interesting designs.
Wow, there’s so much more to do and people are doing it right.
Read the full interview with Banke Kuku below:
Gertrude Oby: Thank you for making time for this conversation. So, before we jump into the major things, just fresh off your show, how was the experience? Do you think you achieved as much as you intended to?
Banke Kuku: Yes. We were very intentional about what we wanted to achieve and we had very big goals. But we definitely achieved what we wanted and more.
OG: Okay, awesome. So, let’s talk about sustainable fashion. What does sustainable fashion mean to you and your brand? Especially being in the industry for many years now.
BK: Sustainable fashion has always meant something to the brand. Even though we’re just voicing it out now, we’re a sustainable brand in the terms that firstly, we have a no-waste policy. Even if a piece is from one of our older collections, we don’t burn it because it’s the end of the season. We’re a seasonless brand, so we don’t have seasons as long as it’s selling on the shelves.
And then, we use our upcut to make things like mini bags and also face masks. During COVID-19, we partnered with a charity called Neighbourhood Link and we’re making masks so when a customer buys one of our masks, we would give one away to charity. So, we’re definitely helping them. Also, we create a good working environment for all our staff. We believe in fair trade. We use digital printing, which is better for the environment because it doesn’t consume too much heat and water.
And now, we are now telling our sustainability story, which is about nature. A lot of people wonder why the brand chooses always to have a nature story. And this is the reason: because we’re still involved in the nature around us. I, myself, am part of the Nigerian Conservation Foundation. I’ve been so for the past three to four years. So we support our environment that way. And now we’re doing more with the marine environment. And we’re also looking to plant quite a number of trees throughout Lagos sometime soon. We’ll keep you updated on the date for that.
OG: Okay, great. So do you think that your show was a political statement?
BK: Environmental statement, I’d say. Not political. It’s an environmental statement because it was a call to action for everyone.
OG: Okay, how do you tie that into your ambassadorial role for the Lagos State government?
BK: I’m not formally an ambassador for the Lagos State government, but, I mean, they do support me and whatever I do with them, I would try to get them involved as well.
OG: The global economy is affecting brands, local and international, including luxury fashion houses. Right? So how are you able to manage that and still deliver quality pieces that are in line with your brand ethos?
The most important thing for us is maintaining our quality. We always find a way around that even if it’s a situation where we have to design fewer pieces. Whatever happens, we’d rather cut back on other things, if need be, and maintain our quality but right now because we are creating very special pieces of great quality, customers are still patronizing us. It hasn’t come to that point yet.
OG: So, when you mention cutbacks, what areas have you had to cut back on?
BK: At the moment, we have not necessarily had to cut back. We have had to be more mindful. Obviously, every business, throughout the world has to be, at this time. We’re not frivolous in our expenditure. We focus on our customers and our products. But at the moment, we’re fine.
OG: Okay. So you are not cutting back. Okay. So, when it comes to ethical sourcing and production, how are you mindful of that in your processes from start to finish?
BK: So, for example, one of our biggest sellers was our poly organza Kaftan. And we’ve discontinued this fabric because I wanted to be more conscious about, you know, the environment and we know what plastic does. So we are definitely moving towards that. We definitely reduce the amount of man-made fabrics throughout our collection. And, you know, we’re doing our best to maintain natural fibres as much as we can. We’re also trying to reduce our carbon footprints in different ways, which is something that we’ll be able to expand on a lot more next year. But yeah, I mean, vanilla was known mainly for its silks, so that fabric is still one of our champion products.
OG: Right, okay. With the current fashion season, what would you say are the latest trends in fashion that people should look out for generally and, in line with your brand, those that you love, personally?
BK: In terms of trends as a brand, we go at our own pace. Obviously, there are some trends that we look out for, but we, in terms of trends, have our customers. More than looking at trend websites, or anything like that, we focus on what our customers want from us. I love colours. I love the fact that colours brighten up your day. You know, sometimes when you’re feeling down, when you look at these amazing, vibrant colours, it lifts your spirit. We want our clothes to, not just make you look good outside, we also want them to make you feel good.
And in this day and age where mental health is so important, I really hope that my brand also supports that.
OG: Right. I like that you mentioned that because there was this brilliant thing: you made a transition during the COVID-19 season. What inspired that and was that transition a success for your brand?
BK: I was designing prints for interiors, fabrics for interiors, cushions, lampshades, and things like that when I was abroad because I lived in London. I moved to Nigeria and I continued that here as well. That’s what I had in my first door, which everyone still comes to—Number 2, Alexander. But we’ve now expanded. But my first door was just cushions, and lampshades, and then I had some scarves. And then I had a customer that asked me, ‘You know, these prints are beautiful. I want to wear them out. I don’t want to just have them in my house.’ And so, I agreed to make her the Kaftan. And then she ordered another Kaftan and some of her friends started ordering Kaftans. And I just thought, ‘You know what, let me put together a Kaftan collection and see how it goes.’
And, that’s when I launched my first collection, which was called “The Paris Dream,” in December of 2019.
And then COVID-19 happened during. I think the lockdown happened in March the following year, March 2020. So my passing pieces were really pieces because I was very much in the interior design space. So I really wanted to create pieces that you could wear at home, in your beautiful environments, feel comfortable, and wear those clothes outside as well like luxury loungewear. It was pyjamas and Kaftans mainly, but it was all sorts of crazy prints. Fluorescent yellow prints, fluorescent pink prints. It was just really interesting. And then you had COVID-19 happen when everyone started to stay at home. And so people wanted to look stylish at home.
And the colours really brightened people’s days. And some of my customers were reaching out to me saying ‘I’m having a really bad day. I’m having a bit of a low day. Please can you send me some colourful prints?’ So it was meant to be. Banke Kuku is an uplifting brand as well. So that was really my focus. That’s what really inspired me to go into fashion.
OG: Okay, lovely. I like that you mentioned that Banke Kuku is an uplifting brand. But how are you able to maintain that over the years in and out of fashion seasons?
BK: I would tell a positive story. For me, even my fashion shoot, we just recently did. We did it in La Campagne Tropicana. And when I was posting the pictures, everybody was like, ‘Oh my gosh, where is this?’ I was like, it’s in Naples, you know. So even finding those pots of gold that are amazing, untouched, natural, like natural areas throughout Nigeria is a positive story because people don’t even expect to see these things. And it’s showing the richness of Nigeria, whether it’s in Lagos or outside Lagos. So just even finding these amazing places is already uplifting and amazing because people don’t expect to hear these stories about Nigeria.
That you can go somewhere and you’re in between an untouched beach and an untouched forest. A forest that has monkeys and all sorts of animals. And then you have a beach that flows so untouched sometimes, and you have dolphins. And this exists in Lagos. And even telling those stories is so inspiring for us, you know, the importance of preserving our natural environment for our children and our future.
Banke Kuku, Modaculture, 2024
And I think this, you know, it’s not even just with the beautiful aspect of it, it’s also for living. We get our food from the water. Look at our vegetables and all sorts of different things that we eat from the forest. So, it’s really important that we preserve this.
OG: With fashion season in full swing, are there emerging brands you’re particularly excited to see or looking forward to?
BK: I wasn’t even to say it’s one specific emerging brand.
I’m always excited to see all emerging brands because, you know, what really makes up the fashion industry is new talent. So I’m excited. There are some new names I’m not familiar with, but I can’t wait to see them. I can’t wait to see what they create and what they’re bringing to the table. So I’m excited to see all the emerging brands, to be honest.
Banke Kuku, Modaculture, 2024
OG: Let’s talk about the future of fashion. With the end of the year and next year, what are the things that will change when it comes to running a fashion business in Africa?
BK: The world loves Nigerian fashion designers. The world does. And I feel as if we are really becoming a lot more sophisticated in our practice. I think the future of fashion in Nigeria is that the sky is really our limit. I think it’s amazing how since I started this almost five years ago, I’ve seen the industry grow like, you know, before you didn’t have the industry. It’s not just about the fashion design, it’s about the supporting roles, like amazing photographers and manufacturers. There’s so much more to an industry. And I feel like Nigerians are starting to recognize that. So I’m excited for the future of fashion in Nigeria and I’m excited to see such interesting designs.
Wow, there’s so much more to do and people are doing it right.
OG: Okay, physical shows versus virtual shows?
BK: I’m a physical person. I know there was a time during the lockdown when they said there wouldn’t be any models anymore and everyone was going to do these 3D shows. When we say physical, I mean, I can watch a show online that’s to me, that’s still physical. But when you say virtual, I’m thinking, like, virtual models and all that kind of stuff. I definitely feel there’s nothing better than a great model with a great piece with lights and the atmosphere. That’s really what the magic is all about.
OG: I mean, over time, we’ve gone from physical shows to fully virtual to hybrid. Right? So do you think that in the coming years, fashion will go back to full physical shows?
BK: When you say fully physical, do you mean, like being physically present?
OG: Yes
BK: Or watching it? When you say virtual, do you mean, like, what they used to be? There was a time when there were these 3D models.
OG: Yes, exactly that.
BK: I mean, I think technology has its place, and sometimes people can do beautiful things with virtual reality. I think there will be a bit of both for me and my brand. I like the physical nature of the eye. That’s what I like. But I don’t know what my consumers are going to ask for. And as a designer, my responsibility is to give my consumers what they want, if it’s done. But for shows, it is what they demand. I still think I’ll do a bit of both because of my passion as well. I love the buzz you get from the actual physical show.
OG: Okay, let’s talk about the business side a bit. Do you find that the tastes of consumers, when it comes to fashion, are changing over time?
BK: Yes, definitely. It’s not even over time. Fashion changes, overnight, all the time. Different things happen. I don’t know what fashion was like before COVID-19, because I only had three months. My brand was so tiny then. But, you know, lifestyle changes, like the fact that I was used to, you know, everyone being at home for some time, and then, you know, everyone started stepping out of their homes, and everyone wanted to look a bit more—because they’ve been locked up for so long—extravagant and wants to wear the craziest things because it’s like they’ve been [stuck].
They’re like when a lion has been caged and suddenly it’s been released. That’s kind of how consumers were. Everyone wanted to wear the most ridiculously high heels. They had been wearing flats for the past three years because they had been at home.
Banke Kuku, Modaculture, 2024
So you’re dealing with this kind of life from COVID-19. Yeah. So those lifestyle changes, sometimes also economic and environmental changes change customers; how customers consume things like now, we’re going through a global recession. So, people want things they can wear in different ways, whether they will wear them in the morning or evening, but they can wear them short, or they can wear them long.
They want multi-purpose pieces and pieces that, you know, they can wear five times and everyone is not like, ‘Isn’t that the same dress you’re wearing? How many days is it?’ You know what I mean? So people want that kind of flexibility as well. You have to be conscious of these things.
OG: Banke Kuku is a big brand and very popular. What are the things you say prepared you for a moment like this?
BK: I was very intentional. This is what I wanted. So it’s not like we’re here because it just so happened and stumbled across it. We worked hard for it. My team works hard for it. Even my PR team works hard. We all work really hard and we have our goals. We set our goals and we’re intentional about every single thing. I mean, we’ve all made lots of sacrifices to be where we are today. So that’s what I would say about that.
OG: Okay, great. So I’m aware that you interned at some fashion brands before you started yours. Do you want to tell us about some of them and what those experiences were like for you?
BK: Yes. So, I mean, I interned and I worked as well at some fashion houses before I started my own. And, I also freelanced for a few fashion houses designing fabrics.
Fashion moves at such a fast pace and that’s one thing I took away from my work experience, that it’s fast and you don’t have time. Like, you know, people want things, especially now where people see it, they want it now. There’s no way you can post a picture and then say, ‘Oh, you know, [it’s not available yet]’, anyway in Nigeria. Although in other places you can post. Designers do it all the time. Like now, they’re showing SS25 and that’s not available for another six months. In Nigeria, you put the picture, they want it now.
In fact, even with our social media, we have to be very careful before we post. Even just with pieces that we previously had, they may not be in stock, but now you post a picture, you have to have stock behind it because people want that now and they want it yesterday.
Banke Kuku, Modaculture, 2024
So things are a lot faster than even when I was working in-house. I also learned the structure, and how to structure things. I learned the business. I learned the commitment you have to give.
Fashion is a very jazz business. You can’t be doing [something else ] and be a designer, and then it can’t be a side thing. It’s not a side thing. It’s your life. You give your life to it, almost.
Banke Kuku, Modaculture, 2024
My life is based on my passion. And you have to, depending on where you are in life, but you have to really prioritize that. So those are the things that I learned.
OG: Okay, a couple of celebrities have worn your pieces over the years. Was there a particular moment or person who collaborated with you and then you had that feeling of, ‘Yes, this is the moment’?
I mean, every single woman I dress is so special and so amazing. It’s hard for me to choose one. I’ve had some really, I would even say the people with the highest profiles or just the people that even just touched my life. It’s still hard to pick one. As I said, there are so many. The women that I get close to through my business, honestly, they’re incredible. They’re incredible people.
Banke Kuku, Modaculture, 2024
OG: Okay, amazing. Amazing. And I had asked earlier about some of the places you worked at or places you interned. Are there some of them you want to mention that had a great impact on your journey?
BK: Yes, I think. Well, Burberry had a great impact on my journey. Jasmine de Milo, which is Mohammed Al Fayed’s daughter’s brand, which was based in Harrods at the time before she’s now closed down. So those are the two that are most significant.
